Particle trajectories of nonlinear gravity waves in deep water     

Hsien-Kuo Chang  Jin-Cheng Liou 《Ocean Engineering》2009,36(5):324-329

The paper presents a numerical method for calculating the particle trajectories of nonlinear gravity waves in deep water. Particle trajectories, mass-transport velocity and Lagrangian wave period can be accurately determined by the proposed method. The high success rate of the proposed method is examined by comparing the present results with those of (a) Longuet-Higgins, M.S., 1986, 1987. Eulerian and Lagrangian aspects of surface waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 173, 683-707 and (b) Lagrangian moments and mass transport in Stokes waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 179, 547-555. It is shown that the dimensionless mass-transport velocity can exceed 10% for large waves, and the Lagrangian wave period is much larger than the Eulerian wave period for large waves.  相似文献   

Characteristics of developing waves as a function of atmospheric conditions,water properties,fetch and duration     

J.P. Le Roux 《Coastal Engineering》2009

For any specific wind speed, waves grow in period, height and length as a function of the wind duration and fetch until maximum values are reached, at which point the waves are considered to be fully developed. Although equations and nomograms exist to predict the parameters of developing waves for shorter fetch or duration conditions at different wind speeds, these either do not incorporate important variables such as the air and water temperature, or do not consider the combined effect of fetch and duration. Here, the wind conditions required for a fully developed sea are calculated from maximum wave heights as determined from the wind speed, together with a published growth law based on the friction velocity. This allows the parameters of developing waves to be estimated for any combination of wind velocity, fetch and duration, while also taking account of atmospheric conditions and water properties.  相似文献   

Large-scale dune erosion tests to study the influence of wave periods   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

M.R.A. van Gent  J.S.M. van Thiel de Vries  E.M. Coeveld  J.H. de Vroeg  J. van de Graaff 《Coastal Engineering》2008,55(12):1041-1051

Large-scale physical model tests were performed to quantify the effects of the wave period on dune erosion. Attention was focussed on 2D cross-shore effects in a situation with sandy dunes and extreme water levels and wave conditions. Besides profile measurements, detailed measurements in time and space of water pressure, flow velocities and sediment concentrations were performed in the near near-shore area. It was concluded that a longer wave period leads to a larger dune erosion volume and to a larger landward retreat of the dune face. Tests with double-peaked wave spectra showed that the influence of the spectral shape on dune erosion was best represented by the T_m − 1,0 spectral mean wave period, better than the peak wave period, T_p. The effect of the wave period on dune erosion was implemented in a dune erosion prediction method that estimates erosion volumes during normative storm conditions for the Dutch coast. More details of the measurements and additional analyses of physical processes are described in an accompanying paper by Van Thiel de Vries et al. [Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M., van Gent, M.R.A., Reniers, A.J.H.M. and Walstra, D.J.R., submitted for publication. Analysis of dune erosion processes in large scale flume experiments, In this volume of Coastal Engineering.].  相似文献   

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郑水明  王岚  黄江  王平 《大地测量与地球动力学》2008,28(6):73-76

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Crytic period analysis model of hydrological process and its application     

Hongrui Wang  Xin Lin  Longxia Qian 《水文研究》2009,23(13):1834-1843

It is difficult to analyse the crytic period of the hydrological process, because hydrological time series is probably characterized by heteroscedasticity. To find out the crytic period, a model is constructed as follows: (1) after using zero‐mean transformation for the data, to do Augmented Dickey–Fuller stationary test for the sequence, to build the corresponding AR(p) model and then to do ARCH effects test and white noise test for residual series; (2) for those time series that cannot pass through ARCH test, using logarithm transformation to reduce the heteroscedasticity, and then to redo step (1) until they pass through ARCH test and stationary test; (3) using periodogram analysis to determine all the possible the prime periods and further to put forward three kinds of tests to determine significance level of those prime periods. As examples, the hydrological processes of streamflow from 1784 to 1997 for the gauging stations of Alaer and Xinquman along Tarim River are analysed. After reducing their heteroscedasticity, AR(4) and AR(2) models are developed, respectively. Our results show that the streamflows from the two gauging stations have the same cryptic period of 42·7 years. Furthermore, the reliability for the crytic period model is testified by variance analysis, which shows that the crytic period model is useful and reliable. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

2005/2006年度莱州湾东部的海冰灾害及其影响   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

张绪良  谷东起  陈东景 《海洋湖沼通报》2009,(2)

莱州湾是水深较浅的半封闭海湾,与外海海水的交换缓慢,受黄河等十几条入海河流汇入的淡水影响使海水的盐度较低.受寒潮影响莱州湾内海冰灾害发生频繁.莱州湾的海冰灾害分5个冰情等级.在冬季气温偏高的年份,莱州湾内形成Ⅰ、Ⅱ级海冰,沿岸一般没有固定冰形成;一般年份形成Ⅲ级海冰,西岸和南岸冰情较严重,有固定冰形成;在冬季气温偏低的年份,形成Ⅳ级或Ⅴ级海冰,南岸、西岸的固定冰宽度较大,有时整个莱州湾海面都分布流冰.2005年末～2006年初在莱州湾东岸形成了一次较严重的海冰灾害,莱州市近海海湾扇贝养殖的经济损失达400万元以上.为减轻未来海冰灾害带来的损失提出了加强海冰灾害的监测和预报技术研究,严格管理近海养殖生产作业,莱州湾沿岸地方政府应制定<海冰灾害应急预案>,建设和完善海冰灾害应急防御体系等防御海冰灾害的对策.  相似文献   

末次冰期低纬度西太平洋硅藻席沉积与生态特征     

翟滨  李铁刚 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》2009,(4)

硅藻在全球碳循环中发挥着重要的作用。"树荫种"硅藻在次表层水体中的勃发成席,并迅速埋藏成为硅藻席沉积,使人们逐渐意识到次表层生产在整个生产力及输出生产中起着重要作用。介绍了首次在低纬度西太平洋区域发现的硅藻席沉积的分布特征,硅藻席发现站位呈带状分布,大致呈北西-南东向展布,大部分散布在17.5°～20°N之间。采集到硅藻席沉积物的站位其水深在碳酸钙补偿深度(CCD)以下4837～6150m的深水区,多分布在较平坦的海底,且受风力和陆源物质输入影响相对较强的区域。该区域硅藻席的形成可能是由于末次冰期时该海区有大洋锋面的形成所致。该区域的成席硅藻Ethmodiscus rex(Wallich)Hendey为典型的"树荫种"硅藻,可以通过自身调节浮力的作用,在水体相对稳定的贫氧大洋中生存并勃发成席。末次冰期低纬度西太平洋硅藻席沉积的发生,可能使该区成为CO2的汇。  相似文献   

Relationship of Arctic sea ice and Northern Hemispheric 500 hPa Polar vortices     

References： 《极地研究(英文版)》2007,18(1):73-83

Using the NCEP/NCAR reanalysis monthly 500 hPa height data on a 2.5 latitude-longitude grid and 1°×1° sea ice data,the polar vortex area,intensity index and arctic sea ice area index are calculated respectively,and the meridional distribution,period variation and the abrupts in the long range trend are analyzed to study their relationship.The results show that the meridional distribution of sea ice and polar vortex h-ave distinctive difference,the relative positions of them are different in the eastern and western hemispheres,and exept they have periods of 4 months,quasi half year,quasi year,4-5 years and 10 years commonly,and each of them has its own respective variation as well.The sea ice area is decreasing apparently since 1980's,so is the polar vortex area,but their abrupt changge time are different totally.The area of sea ice and polar vortex has prominent positive correlation,but the relationship of sea ice intensity,polar vortex intensity,polar vortex area is complicated.  相似文献   

1961 - 2017年中国东北地区降雪时空演变特征分析   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：1  

周晓宇  赵春雨  崔妍  刘鸣彦  敖雪  李娜  李经纬 《冰川冻土》2020,42(3):766-779

利用东北地区162个气象台站逐日降水量和天气现象数据， 采用统计分析方法， 对近57年（1961 - 2017年）降雪的气候特征和时空演变规律进行了分析。结果表明： 降雪量和降雪日数最多出现在12月， 小雪和中雪最多出现在11月或12月， 大雪和暴雪在冬末春初出现概率最高。降雪分布为山地大于平原， 平原地区自北向南、 自东向西减少， 降雪高值区主要位于大兴安岭北部、 小兴安岭和长白山区， 降雪强度中心位于长白山区和辽宁中部平原地区。年、 秋季、 冬季、 春季降雪量占同期降水量比例分别为4.7%、 7.0%、 84.4%和7.6%； 辽宁省西部山区和南部大连地区日最大降雪量占年总降雪量比例最高， 最长连续降雪日数在2 d以下， 降雪较高纬度地区更为集中。近57年降雪量和降雪强度分别以1.93 mm?（10a）^-1和0.11 mm?d^-1?（10a）^-1的速率显著增加， 降雪日数以2.08 d?（10a）^-1速率显著减少； 降雪量增加主要表现为各等级降雪量的增加， 降雪日数减少主要是微量和小雪日数的减少， 降雪强度增加主要为大雪和暴雪降雪强度的增加。年、 秋季和冬季降雪量占同期降水量比例平均每10年增加0.36%、 0.48%和0.45%， 春季以0.11%?（10a）^-1的速率减少。中雪、 大雪和暴雪对降雪贡献率均呈增加趋势， 小雪降雪量和微量降雪日数贡献率减少； 1987年降雪量和降雪日数突变后， 微量降雪日数和暴雪日数、 小雪降雪量贡献率改变显著。就区域平均而言， 2001 - 2017年的降雪量较1961 - 1980年增加了27.8%， 降雪日数减少了22.4%。  相似文献   

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何晓业  何晓红 《大地测量与地球动力学》2007,27(2):122-124

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